Step 1
Der Anbau
Unsere Bio-Baumwolle wird nach den Richtlinien des ökologischen Landbaus angebaut. Langzeitstudien über ökologische Betriebe haben gezeigt, dass der ökologische Landbau 18 Prozent weniger Treibhausgasemissionen verursacht als andere Anbausysteme.* *Quelle: Textile exchange (2021) Material summary on Organic, In-Conversion Cotton. .
Stattdessen düngen die Bäuer*innen mit Mist und Kompost, was die natürliche Fruchtbarkeit des Bodens und seine Erosionsresistenz zirkulär aufbaut. Ein jährlicher Fruchtwechsel ist ebenfalls vorgeschrieben. So wird durch den rotierenden Anbau der Baumwolle mit anderen Kulturen Schädlingen und Krankheiten natürlich vorgebeugt und der Boden weiter angereichert.
Durch seinen erhöhten Humusanteil ist der Boden nicht nur fruchtbarer: er kann zudem mehr Wasser und atmosphärisches CO2 speichern.
Step 2
Die Ernte
Bio-Baumwolle wird einmal jährlich geerntet. Anders als beim konventionellen Baumwollanbau sind chemische Entlaubungsmittel, die zur Erleichterung einer maschinellen Beerntung eingesetzt werden, verboten.
Um den Wechsel von konventioneller auf Bio-Baumwolle zu erleichtern, haben wir im April 2018 die ARMEDANGELS Organic Farmers Association gegründet. Diese unterstützt derzeit über 500 Kleinbäuer*innen in Indien beim dreijährigen Umstellungsprozess
Step 3
Die Faser
Unmittelbar nach der Ernte wird die Rohbaumwolle in spezielle Verarbeitungsbetriebe gebracht, um die Baumwollfasern vom Samen zu trennen. Dies geschieht vollautomatisch mit Hilfe einer speziellen Entkörnungsmaschine, der Cotton-Gin.
Während der gesamten Entkörnung gelten strenge Kontrollen, um die Baumwolle nach Qualität und Anbaumethode (biologisch oder konventionell) getrennt zu halten.
Step 4
Yarn
During the spinning process, individual short fibres and fibre bundles are brought together to form an even thread or yarn by twisting and pulling them together. What used to be a laborious method carried out by hand using a spinning wheel is now generally a fully automated process.
The finished spun threads are finally wrapped into strands or on cones for further processing.
Step 5
Stricken
Für unsere T-Shirts aus Bio-Baumwolle wird ein Single Jersey Stoff hergestellt. Anders als Gewebe, bei denen zwei Fadensysteme verkreuzt werden, handelt es sich dabei um einen Maschenstoff, bei dem Fadenschleifen mit anderen Fadenschleifen verbunden werden.
Dieser Prozess geschieht vollautomatisch an großen Rundstrickmaschinen, die viele einzelne Garne zur textilen Jerseyfläche verstricken.
Step 6
Dyeing + Finishing
Depending on the textile, dyeing and finishing is carried out at different points in the production process: on the yarn (striped fabrics), the textile fabric or the finished article of clothing (garment dye).
When dyeing textiles in the conventional industry, many chemical products are used and health risks are accepted. Pollutants contained in the dye can be released from the yarn when wearing a T-shirt, enter the body and provoke allergic reactions or diseases of the immune system.
As an alternative, dyes can be used that are permitted under the Global Organic Textile Standard. All colours and chemical agents are toxicologically tested for compliance. Thanks to modern filtration systems, waste water is not contaminated either.
Step 7
Assembly
Assembly encompasses the cutting, sewing and finishing of garments. In this process, a 2-dimensional textile fabric becomes a 3-dimensional garment.
The assembly of our organic cotton T-shirt JAAMES is carried out in Portugal at our certified partner facilities. As for all our partners, our conditions here include: fair wages for employees in sewing factories, no child labour, increased safety at the workplace and fewer overtime hours.
Step 1
Cultivation
More than 99% of the wood used comes from sustainabler forestry. Specifically, this means that is certified or controlled in accordance with FSC® (FSC-C041246) and/or PEFC™ (PEFC/06-33-92).
Healthy forest areas have an immense importance for our climate as the most significant reservoirs of CO2. That's why we are committed to proactively protecting endangered forests and jungles even beyond our own wood supply.
Step 2
Wood as a raw material
Our partner, the Lenzing company, specialises in processing wood that cannot be used for other purposes such as making furniture. As a result, their forestry practice is fully in line with the principle of sustainability.
In addition, they ensure that all wood sources are as close as possible to the cellulose processing factory and that the wood is transported in an environmentally friendly manner.
Step 3
LENZING™ ECOVERO™
LENZING™ ECOVERO™ The manufacture of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibres generates 50% fewer emissions and water pollution when compared to generic viscose.* *Source: https://www.ecovero.com/de/index.html
Furthermore, LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibres carry the EU Ecolabel. This environmental seal is given to products and services that fulfil strict environmental standards throughout their entire life cycle, i.e. from raw material extraction to manufacture, distribution and disposal. Specifically, this means: LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibres can always be identified without a doubt in the end product.
Step 4
Yarn
During the spinning process, individual short fibres and fibre bundles are brought together to form an even thread or yarn by twisting and pulling them together. What used to be a laborious method carried out by hand using a spinning wheel is now generally a fully automated process.
The finished spun threads are finally wrapped into strands or on cones for further processing.
Step 5
Weaving
During weaving, two thread systems are crossed at right angles and woven into a textile fabric. Nowadays, this process is carried out by large, fully automated weaving machines. All fabrics that are produced in this manner, regardless of the material used, are referred to as woven fabrics.
Our woven fabric made from LENZING™ ECOVERO™ is characterised by a subtle sheen, silky feel and a beautiful drape.
Step 6
Dyeing + Finishing
When dyeing textiles in the conventional industry, many hazardous chemicals are used and health risks are accepted. Pollutants contained in the dye can be released from the yarn when wearing a T-shirt, enter the body and provoke allergic reactions or diseases of the immune system.
When dyeing textiles in the conventional industry, many chemical products are used and health risks are accepted. Pollutants contained in the dye can be released from the yarn when wearing a T-shirt, enter the body and provoke allergic reactions or diseases of the immune system.
Because fabrics made of cellulose itself cannot be GOTS certified, we use only dyes approved under GOTS in their processing. So also for all fabric prints.
Step 7
Assembly
Assembly encompasses the cutting, sewing and finishing of garments. In this process, a 2-dimensional textile fabric becomes a 3-dimensional garment.
The assembly for our LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Dress GALEAA is carried out in Portugal at our certified partner facilities. As for all our partners, our conditions here include: fair wages for employees in sewing factories, no child labour, increased safety at the workplace and fewer overtime hours.
Step 1
Livestock farming
The way we work with animals and prioritise their well-being says everything about their ethical importance to us. Specifically in this area, we found that criteria and key indicators were lacking, which is why we defined our own ARMEDANGELS animal welfare guidelines. In these guidelines, we address animal welfare, land management and social well-being and establish a systematic review in all our supply chains. This also stipulates the conditions under which the sheep and alpacas are kept.
Step 2
New wool
We are committed to procuring the most sustainable and animal-friendly wool in the world. That's why we have been collaborating with Fuhrmann S.A. in Argentina since 2015, whose sheep graze on free-range land in Patagonia.
Our sheep's wool is certified according to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and at the fibre level according to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).
We have zero tolerance for mulesing. This is the term for the cruel practice of cutting off large strips of skin from the sheep's buttocks for the purpose of wool extraction.
Step 3
Yarn
During the spinning process, individual short fibres and fibre bundles are brought together to form an even thread or yarn by twisting and pulling them together. This is then wound into balls or strands.
What used to be a laborious method carried out by hand using a spinning wheel is now generally a fully automated process. Using various spinning methods, different qualities of yarn can be produced: soft, firm, voluminous etc.
In order to further reinforce these characteristics, different fibres are often mixed in the yarn. For instance, our HILARIAA SOFT pullover is made of organic wool and organic cotton.
Step 4
Dyeing
Before the knitting process, the yarn is dyed. To this end, the bobbins of yarn are submerged into the dye bath. When dyeing textiles in the conventional industry, many chemical products are used and health risks are accepted. Pollutants contained in the dye can be released when wearing a pullover, enter the body and provoke allergic reactions or diseases of the immune system.
As an alternative, dyes can be used that are permitted under the Global Organic Textile Standard. All colours and chemical agents are toxicologically tested for compliance. Thanks to modern filtration systems, waste water is not contaminated either.
Step 5
Knitting
Our knitted pullovers are knitted on flat knitting machines. What makes this method unique is that the full textile is not knitted and then cut: instead, the individual sections are knitted directly into the correct shape and can then be sewn together. By using this technique, we are able to minimise waste for all our knit products.
Step 1
Old clothing & scraps
With our take-back system, we are closing an important cycle. Old clothing and cutting scraps from our factories are first collected and sorted before being further processed into new high-quality threads.
Our goal in this process is to establish a sustainable circular system that can make our company entirely zero waste by 2030.
You can learn more about our take-back system and how you can participate HERE.
Step 2
The fibres
Further processing is carried out at our partner facilities in Portugal and Spain. Here, the textiles are reduced to small pieces in multiple steps until the old material once again consists of loose, fluffy fibres that can be re-spun into firm threads.
Through this process, we use textile waste as an important resource and save valuable fresh fibres. The next step is to produce the ARMEDANGELS circular yarn.
Step 3
Yarn
During the spinning process, individual short fibres and fibre bundles are brought together to form an even thread or yarn by twisting and pulling them together. What used to be a laborious method carried out by hand using a spinning wheel is now a fully automated process.
The finished spun threads are finally wrapped into strands or on cones for further processing.
Step 4
Dyeing
When dyeing textiles in the conventional industry, many harmful chemical products are used and health risks are accepted. Pollutants contained in the dye can be released from the yarn when wearing jeans, enter the body and provoke allergic reactions or diseases of the immune system.
As an alternative, dyes can be used that are permitted under the Global Organic Textile Standard. All colours and chemical agents are toxicologically tested for compliance. Thanks to modern filtration systems, waste water is not contaminated either.
Step 5
Weaving
During weaving, two thread systems are crossed at right angles and woven into a textile fabric. Nowadays, this process is carried out by large, fully automated weaving machines.
The traditional weaving technique for denim is twill weave, which gives jeans material its sturdy structure and oblique edge. The classic blue-white look with a dark front side and bright back side is created by using a dyed warp yarn and an undyed, raw white weft warn.
Step 6
Assembly
Assembly encompasses the cutting, sewing and finishing of garments. In this process, a 2-dimensional textile fabric becomes a 3-dimensional garment.
The assembly of our FJELLA CROPPED jeans is carried out by our certified partner in Tunisia. As for all our partners, our conditions here include: fair wages for employees in sewing factories, no child labour, increased safety at the workplace and fewer overtime hours.
Step 7
Finishing
In the last manufacturing step, the finishing stage, the jeans are given their final look. In conventional production, toxic bleaches and energy-consuming stone washing techniques are used to brighten the original indigo blue and trim the fabric for a used look. This often harms the fabric.
Instead of toxic chlorine and potassium permanganate, we exclusively use GOTS-certified and toxicologically tested chemicals for all denims. In addition, we rely on modern technique such as lasers or ozone wash to further reduce our water consumption and impact.